Color is one of the most complex and difficult things to predict in the outcome when we do microblading. In this chapter we will cover the basics of color theory when it comes to implementing pigment into the skin. All skin is like a canvas in which we implant color. Each hue, shade, undertone, and presence of melanin contributes to the color of the pigment which we implant into the skin. When we are working with pigment colors, we must take into consideration the natural skin's color and undertones which will all factor into our final color that will be microbladed into our client's eyebrows. It is very important that we always remember that microblading always heals a cool tone, so we need to consider this factor when determining how much warmth to add to our final pigment color. Color is very important as your final color selection makes your first impression. You must get your color correct, there is no margin for error with regards to color.
This is why we need to factor in our three important steps, the Fitzpatrick Scale, the natural skins undertone, and the chance of hyper-pigmentation. We must be very careful when mixing colors so we can achieve the perfect shade. We strongly advise to use higher-end pigments now available on the market that are already cool or warm and that are meant to correct / neutralizes undertones. This makes us less anxious knowing that our result will always be what we desire instead of mixing and getting a result our client is not happy with. When using pigments, you need to always consider adding a drop of warm \ cold color tones to your selected pigment, depending on client's natural undertone.
THE FITZPATRICK SCALE
In a case that the client is naturally a warm tone, your pigment selection should be base on cold colors (olive base). If your selection contains only cold colors, it is recommended to add one drop of warm color as an insurance to be safe and to balance the pigment. However, if your selection contains a lot of warm colors, you must add a cold drop to be sure it is well-balanced.
In a case that the client is naturally a cold tone (asian and dark skin types), your pigment selection should be based on warm colors. If your selection contains only warm colors, it is recommended to add one drop of cold color as an insurance to be safe and to balance the pigment. However, if your selection contains a lot of cold colors, you must add a warm drop ( a pigment on a heavy base of red) to be sure it is well-balanced.
We can never be too sure how much cool tone the client's skin will pull from the microblading process itself, so just to be sure and for added insurance, you can add a drop of orange or olive color to your original pigment choice. Warm colors contain more red and cold colors contain more olive. When using the best, highest-grade pigments on the market, you don't need to worry as much about mixing colors and the errors that can likely occur with mixing color such as ending up with a muddy dull color and possibly too much cool or too much warm.
The primary colors are red, yellow, and blue. The secondary colors are a creation of mixing two primary colors together, or the contrasting colors, to make different hues. When mixing blue and yellow, you end up with green. When mixing blue and red, you end up with purple. When mixing red and yellow, you end up with orange.
Warm colors correct or neutralize cold color and vice versa.
WARM & COOL COLORS
Warm colors include: red, yellow, and orange. Cool colors include: green, blue, and purple.
STEPS TO CHOOSING THE CORRECT COLOR
The Fitzpatrick Scale (Fitzpatrick skin typing test, or Fitzpatrick photo-typing scale) is a numerical classification scheme for human skin color. The Fitzpatrick Scale was developed in 1975 by Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, a Harvard dermatologist, as a way to classify the typical response of different types of skin to ultraviolet light. Later it was updated to also contain a wider range of skin types. The Fitzpatrick scale remains a recognized tool for dermatological research into human skin pigmentation.
SKIN'S NATURAL UNDERTONE
There are three classifications for undertones: warm, cool, and neutral. If you have warm undertones, your skin will lean peachy, yellow or golden. If you have cool undertones, your skin will lean pink. Use either a neutral, warm or a cool modifier to our red, or blue. Undertones determine the level of warmth in a pigment. Existing formulas for microblading tend to heal ashy, therefore we must always use naturally warm pigments depending on the brand you buy or add extra warmth to our color formula. To help you in determining the client's natural undertone, you can press on the inside of the client's forearm and release.
To learn and understand the pigments undertone, follow these steps:
Take 2 drops from the pigment that you are about to learn.
Place 1 drop on a clean white paper and the other drop place on your skin.
Flatten it so you can see little transparency, wait a minute for the pigment to dry, then you will find out which colors consist in the pigment.
HOWEVER, YOU SHOULD STILL USE A CORRECTOR/NEUTRALIZER.
In case you are unsure and confused about the pigment base/undertone, warm/cool, you should always add one drop from each corrector/neutralizer. This will balance the undertone and cause the pigment to be neutral.